A peek at cosmeceutical skin products that are created by Clinical Doctors and/ or Chemists. Unlike ordinary skincare, the cosmeceutical strength preparations are formulated to make a real, visible difference to the appearance of the skin. Most claim to bridge the gap between ordinary skincare and cosmetic surgery. An interesting fact is that cosmeceutical skin care are regulated requiring over 99% purity ingredient where as cosmetic skin care is unregulated and requires approx. 70% purity. These formulas often come with a hefty price tag, but should we be more selective of what we place on our skin.
One of the early cosmeceutical skin care ranges is Dr. Hauschka’s and now a household name. His development in 1929 of a process for obtaining water-based medicinal plant extracts without using alcohol as a preservative. Introduced in 1935 and used in skin preparations, this process completely changed the pharmaceutical norms and is now codified in the German Homeopathic Pharmacopoeia (HAB) as a recognized process for drug production Plant extracts obtained in this way. This has been working effectively in Dr. Hauschka Skin Care products since 1967.
Now in the 2000’s there are many cosmeceutical brands to choose from with formulas to help from acne skin to rejuvenation and anti-ageing.
These formulas are based on plant extracts and the use of derivatives of vitamins that are natural antioxidants, have rejuvenating and soothing properties.
Here are a few examples of common ingredients used often seen in ordinary cosmetics too, but cosmeceuticals use purist forms and clinical strengths.
Vitamin A is an essential micronutrient whose role in visual function has been known for thousands of years. Retinol : There are a number of different types of retinoids and they are available in different strengths, so it can seem a little confusing if you’ve never come across the ingredient before. All of the different types are derived from Vitamin A – the difference between them lies in the concentration. Reinoic acid (also known as Retin-A or Tretinoin) is the strongest, prescription level retinoid that’s often used to treat acne as well as ageing. All other retinoids from strongest to weakest include retinaldehyde, retinol and then retinol esters (such as retinyl palmitate).
Linoleic acid ( LA) is a polyunsaturated omega-6 fatty acid and is one of two essential fatty acids for humans, who must obtain it through their diet. It is a colorless or white oil that is virtually insoluble in water.
Alpha Beta
Throughout the last decade, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have increasingly appeared as ingredients in cosmetics intended to reduce the signs of aging in the skin. More recently, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or a combination of AHAs and BHAs, have appeared as ingredients in these skin care products. While both AHAs and BHAs act as exfoliants, it has been claimed that BHAs are effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improving overall skin texture, without the occasional irritation associated with the use of AHAs.
BHA ingredients may be listed as –
- salicylic acid (or related substances, such as salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract)*
- beta hydroxybutanoic acid
- tropic acid
- trethocanic acid
Resveratrol is a natural compound found in red grape skin, Japanese knotweed , peanuts, blueberries and some other berries. It is a powerful antioxidant produced by some plants to protect them against environmental stresses. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, which are believed to be the cause of aging.
Arnica
Part of the sunflower family and has been used to relieve joint and muscle pain and swelling with its anti-inflammatory properties. Arnica also helps to soothe the skin.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate: Derivative of palm oil, provides a soft, smooth appearance
Hydrolyzed Silk: Has a nourishing & moisturizing effect
Niacinamide: form of Vitamin B1- Reduces the appearance of skin blemishes
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract: Rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds
Retinyl Palmitate: Vitamin A derived. Anti-aging, encourages new skin cell growth
A few cosmeceutical ranges to look out for are:
AlumierMD
is a true professionally-dispensed medical-grade skincare brand dedicated to the latest advancements clean cosmetic science delivering therapeutic outcomes for patients presenting an array of skin conditions and concerns. https://beta.skinscience.alumiermd.co.uk/
Dr Roxi Haasbroek runs a Non-Surgical Aesthetics Clinic in Salisbury, Wiltshire. She works with AlumierMD products and very happy with the results. Dr Roxi is a stockist of AlumierMD and you can contact her for sales. https://www.aginggracefully.uk/
The Skin Doctors
Has treatments for almost every major beauty problem from spider veins, puffy eye bags, wrinkles and skin ageing, to pigmentation and even micro-dermabrasion and chemical peels. The range provides solutions that can be used in the privacy of your own home.
My Trusty
Leading NHS skincare scientists from Salisbury hospital, dissatisfied with moisturisers generally available, developed and tested a sunflower formula to provide better care for skin. High grade natural sunflower oil was chosen as the primary ingredient because it is rich in linoleic acid that has many beneficial properties for healthy skin. : www.mytrustyskincare.co.uk
Doctors Formula
is a cosmeceutical based brand which harnesses the best current active ingredients on the market which have been clinically proven to have corrective results on your skin.
The collection combines sensorial, easily absorbed base creams, serums and lotions which are infused with power packed ingredients to work on anti-ageing, environmental stresses and hormonally ageing skin. https://doctorsformula.co.uk/
Dr Dennis Gross
A practising dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross is a pioneer of new and innovative ways to combat the primary signs of skin ageing. His top-selling Alpha Beta range was one of the first to harness the resurfacing and rejuvenating properties of five Hydroxy Acids – Glycolic, Lactic, Malic, Citric and Salicylic. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare™ – Award Winning Skin & Facial Care Products UK customers can purchase this product from lookfantastic.com
Rodan and fields
The company was founded by dermatologists, Dr. Katie Rodan and Dr. Kathy Fields, who are well known for their famous Proactiv anti-acne products. Proactiv was sold off and is now a registered trademark of Guthy-Renker and Nestlé.
How you choose to age is a personal decision, whether to go the natural pro-age route or the clinical intervention anti-ageing route – no judgement here! Selfcare and your own mental health is paramount. Skin health is all part of the bigger picture and this includes skincare.
The Photo used is from my make up archive – shot by Clive Arrowsmith for GoodHousekeeping Magazine– makeup by me. 🙂
